*,*::before,*::after{box-sizing:border-box}
html{-webkit-text-size-adjust:100%;scroll-behavior:smooth}
body{margin:0}
h1,h2,h3,h4,p,figure,blockquote,ul,ol{margin:0}
img{max-width:100%;height:auto;display:block}
:root{--tap:44px;--dur-quick:180ms;--ease-out:cubic-bezier(.2,.7,.2,1);--sans:system-ui,-apple-system,"Segoe UI",sans-serif}
.x-skip{position:absolute;left:-9999px;top:0;background:#13283B;color:#F7F3EC;padding:12px 18px;z-index:99}
.x-skip:focus{left:12px;top:12px}
:root { color-scheme: light; }
body { background: #F7F3EC; }
.x-site {
--x-ivory: #F7F3EC; --x-sand: #EFE8DC; --x-navy: #13283B; --x-sea: #7FA99B; --x-sea-deep: #3A6457;
--x-gold: #C8B48A; --x-tint: #E3ECE7; --x-muted: #4F5D69;
--x-serif: "Cormorant Garamond", "Playfair Display", Georgia, serif;
--x-sans: "Inter", var(--sans), system-ui, sans-serif;
--x-wrap: 1240px; --x-pad: clamp(20px, 5vw, 56px);
background: var(--x-ivory); color: var(--x-navy); font: 400 16px/1.7 var(--x-sans);
}
.x-site a { color: inherit; }
.x-site :focus-visible { outline: 2px solid var(--x-sea-deep); outline-offset: 3px; border-radius: 0; }
.x-wrap { max-width: var(--x-wrap); margin: 0 auto; padding-inline: var(--x-pad); }
.x-eyebrow { font: 500 12px/1.4 var(--x-sans); letter-spacing: .22em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--x-sea-deep); }
.x-serif { font-family: var(--x-serif); font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: -.005em; line-height: 1.08; }
.x-rule { border: 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--x-gold); margin: 0; }
.x-btn {
display: inline-flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center; min-height: var(--tap); padding: 0 28px;
font: 500 12px/1 var(--x-sans); letter-spacing: .2em; text-transform: uppercase; text-decoration: none;
border: 1px solid var(--x-navy); background: var(--x-navy); color: var(--x-ivory) !important; cursor: pointer;
transition: background var(--dur-quick) var(--ease-out), color var(--dur-quick) var(--ease-out);
}
.x-btn:hover { background: transparent; color: var(--x-navy) !important; }
.x-btn--light { background: var(--x-ivory); color: var(--x-navy) !important; border-color: var(--x-ivory); }
.x-btn--light:hover { background: transparent; color: var(--x-ivory) !important; }
.x-btn--ghost { background: transparent; color: var(--x-navy) !important; }
.x-btn--ghost:hover { background: var(--x-navy); color: var(--x-ivory) !important; }
.x-textlink { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 10px; min-height: var(--tap); font: 500 12px/1 var(--x-sans); letter-spacing: .2em; text-transform: uppercase; text-decoration: none; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--x-gold); }
.x-textlink::after { content: "\2192"; letter-spacing: 0; font-size: 15px; }
/* nav */
.x-nav { position: sticky; top: 0; z-index: 20; background: rgba(247,243,236,.94); -webkit-backdrop-filter: blur(10px); backdrop-filter: blur(10px); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--x-gold); }
.x-nav .x-wrap { display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: space-between; gap: 24px; min-height: 72px; }
.x-mark { font: 500 19px/1 var(--x-serif); letter-spacing: .28em; text-decoration: none; white-space: nowrap; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: var(--tap); }
.x-thanks { grid-column: 1 / -1; font: italic 400 19px/1.4 var(--x-serif); color: var(--x-sea-deep); }
.x-thanks[hidden] { display: none; }
.x-links { display: flex; gap: clamp(14px, 2vw, 30px); list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; }
.x-links a { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: var(--tap); font: 500 12px/1 var(--x-sans); letter-spacing: .14em; text-transform: uppercase; text-decoration: none; white-space: nowrap; }
.x-links a:hover { color: var(--x-sea-deep); }
@media (max-width: 1020px) {
.x-nav .x-wrap { flex-direction: column; align-items: flex-start; gap: 0; padding-top: 14px; }
.x-nav nav { width: 100%; min-width: 0; }
.x-links { overflow-x: auto; width: 100%; max-width: 100%; scrollbar-width: none; }
.x-links::-webkit-scrollbar { display: none; }
}
/* hero */
.x-hero { position: relative; min-height: min(92vh, 860px); display: flex; align-items: flex-end; color: var(--x-ivory); background: var(--x-navy); overflow: hidden; }
.x-hero__copy { text-shadow: 0 1px 12px rgba(19,40,59,.45); }
.x-hero img { position: absolute; inset: 0; width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; }
.x-hero::after { content: ""; position: absolute; inset: 0; background: linear-gradient(180deg, rgba(19,40,59,0) 30%, rgba(19,40,59,.72) 100%); }
.x-hero__copy { position: relative; z-index: 1; padding-block: 0 clamp(48px, 9vh, 96px); width: 100%; }
.x-hero .x-eyebrow { color: var(--x-ivory); opacity: .92; }
.x-hero h1 { font-size: clamp(44px, 7.4vw, 104px); max-width: 13ch; margin: 18px 0 22px; }
.x-hero p.x-sub { max-width: 52ch; font-size: clamp(16px, 1.4vw, 18px); line-height: 1.65; margin-bottom: 32px; }
/* sections */
.x-sec { padding-block: clamp(72px, 11vw, 140px); }
.x-sec__head { display: grid; gap: 14px; margin-bottom: clamp(36px, 5vw, 60px); }
.x-sec__head h2 { font-size: clamp(36px, 4.6vw, 60px); }
.x-sec__head--row { grid-template-columns: 1fr auto; align-items: end; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--x-gold); padding-bottom: 22px; }
/* featured */
.x-split { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1.25fr 1fr; gap: clamp(32px, 6vw, 88px); align-items: center; }
.x-split__img { aspect-ratio: 4 / 5; overflow: hidden; }
.x-split__img img, .x-card__img img { width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; transition: transform 900ms var(--ease-out); }
.x-split__img:hover img, .x-card:hover .x-card__img img { transform: scale(1.03); }
.x-feature h2 { font-size: clamp(34px, 4.2vw, 58px); margin: 20px 0 24px; }
.x-feature p { color: var(--x-muted); font-size: 17px; max-width: 42ch; margin-bottom: 28px; }
.x-label { display: inline-block; padding: 6px 12px; border: 1px solid var(--x-gold); }
/* guide grid */
.x-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); gap: clamp(40px, 5vw, 64px) clamp(20px, 3vw, 40px); }
.x-card { text-decoration: none; display: grid; gap: 18px; align-content: start; }
.x-card__img { aspect-ratio: 4 / 5; overflow: hidden; background: var(--x-tint); }
.x-card__type { aspect-ratio: 4 / 5; background: var(--x-tint); border: 1px solid rgba(127,169,155,.45); display: grid; place-items: center; padding: 32px; text-align: center; position: relative; }
.x-card__type::before { content: ""; position: absolute; inset: 14px; border: 1px solid rgba(200,180,138,.7); }
.x-card__type span { font: italic 400 clamp(56px, 7vw, 92px)/1 var(--x-serif); color: var(--x-sea-deep); }
.x-card__type small { display: block; margin-top: 14px; font: 500 12px/1.4 var(--x-sans); letter-spacing: .22em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--x-navy); }
.x-card__cap { border-top: 1px solid var(--x-gold); padding-top: 16px; display: grid; gap: 8px; }
.x-card h3 { font: 500 clamp(22px, 2vw, 27px)/1.18 var(--x-serif); }
.x-card:hover h3 { color: var(--x-sea-deep); }
/* towns */
.x-towns { border-block: 1px solid var(--x-gold); padding-block: 40px; }
.x-towns .x-wrap { display: grid; grid-template-columns: auto 1fr; gap: 40px; align-items: center; }
.x-towns ul { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 4px 0; }
.x-towns li + li::before { content: "\00B7"; color: var(--x-gold); padding-inline: 14px; font-size: 22px; }
.x-towns li { display: flex; align-items: center; }
.x-towns a { font: italic 400 clamp(21px, 2vw, 26px)/1.2 var(--x-serif); text-decoration: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: var(--tap); }
.x-towns a:hover { color: var(--x-sea-deep); text-decoration: underline; text-decoration-color: var(--x-gold); text-underline-offset: 6px; text-decoration-thickness: 1px; }
/* ask */
.x-ask { background: var(--x-tint); }
.x-ask .x-wrap { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1.15fr; gap: clamp(40px, 7vw, 100px); }
.x-ask h2 { font-size: clamp(40px, 5vw, 68px); margin: 16px 0 24px; }
.x-ask p.x-lede { font-size: 18px; max-width: 40ch; color: var(--x-navy); }
.x-form { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; gap: 26px 28px; }
.x-field { display: grid; gap: 6px; }
.x-field--full { grid-column: 1 / -1; }
.x-field label { font: 500 12px/1.4 var(--x-sans); letter-spacing: .18em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.x-field label small { letter-spacing: .06em; text-transform: none; color: var(--x-muted); font-weight: 400; font-size: 12px; }
.x-field input, .x-field textarea { font: 400 16px/1.5 var(--x-sans); color: var(--x-navy); background: transparent; border: 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--x-navy); border-radius: 0; padding: 10px 0; min-height: var(--tap); }
.x-field textarea { min-height: 120px; resize: vertical; border: 1px solid var(--x-navy); padding: 12px; }
.x-field input:focus, .x-field textarea:focus { outline: none; border-color: var(--x-sea-deep); box-shadow: 0 1px 0 var(--x-sea-deep); }
.x-form__foot { grid-column: 1 / -1; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 18px 28px; align-items: center; }
.x-note { font: italic 400 17px/1.4 var(--x-serif); color: var(--x-muted); }
/* stay */
.x-stay { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; gap: clamp(32px, 6vw, 88px); align-items: center; }
.x-stay__media { position: relative; padding-bottom: 18%; }
.x-stay__main { aspect-ratio: 3 / 4; overflow: hidden; width: 78%; }
.x-stay__second { position: absolute; right: 0; bottom: 0; width: 52%; aspect-ratio: 4 / 3; overflow: hidden; border: 10px solid var(--x-ivory); }
.x-stay__media img { width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; }
.x-stay h2 { font-size: clamp(36px, 4.4vw, 58px); margin: 18px 0 22px; }
.x-stay p { font-size: 17px; color: var(--x-muted); max-width: 40ch; margin-bottom: 30px; }
.x-code { margin-top: 18px; font-size: 14px; color: var(--x-muted); }
.x-code b { color: var(--x-navy); letter-spacing: .12em; font-weight: 600; }
/* app band */
.x-app { background: var(--x-navy); color: var(--x-ivory); padding-block: clamp(64px, 9vw, 112px); }
.x-app .x-wrap { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr auto; gap: 32px 60px; align-items: center; }
.x-app h2 { font-size: clamp(38px, 5vw, 66px); }
.x-app p { margin-top: 14px; max-width: 48ch; opacity: .86; font-size: 17px; }
.x-app .x-eyebrow { color: var(--x-sea); margin-bottom: 14px; }
/* newsletter */
.x-news .x-wrap { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; gap: 28px 60px; align-items: center; padding-block: clamp(56px, 7vw, 88px); }
.x-news h2 { font-size: clamp(30px, 3.4vw, 44px); }
.x-news form { display: flex; gap: 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--x-navy); }
.x-news input { flex: 1; min-width: 0; border: 0; background: transparent; font: 400 16px/1.5 var(--x-sans); color: var(--x-navy); padding: 10px 0; min-height: var(--tap); }
.x-news input:focus { outline: none; }
.x-news button { border: 0; background: none; color: var(--x-navy); font: 500 12px/1 var(--x-sans); letter-spacing: .2em; text-transform: uppercase; min-height: var(--tap); padding: 0 4px 0 20px; cursor: pointer; }
/* footer */
.x-foot { border-top: 1px solid var(--x-gold); padding-block: 64px 40px; }
.x-foot__top { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; justify-content: space-between; gap: 28px; align-items: center; padding-bottom: 36px; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--x-gold); }
.x-foot .x-links { flex-wrap: wrap; overflow: visible; }
.x-foot__fine { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; justify-content: space-between; gap: 16px 40px; padding-top: 28px; font-size: 13px; color: var(--x-muted); }
.x-foot__fine p:first-child { max-width: 70ch; }
/* article mockup */
.x-mock { background: #fff; border-top: 1px solid var(--x-gold); }
.x-mock__flag { background: var(--x-sand); border-bottom: 1px dashed var(--x-gold); padding-block: 18px; text-align: center; }
.x-mock__flag p { font: 600 12px/1.4 var(--x-sans); letter-spacing: .26em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.x-article { padding-block: clamp(56px, 8vw, 100px); }
.x-article__head { max-width: 860px; margin: 0 auto; text-align: center; display: grid; gap: 22px; justify-items: center; }
.x-article__head h1 { font-size: clamp(38px, 5.4vw, 72px); }
.x-byline { font-size: 13px; letter-spacing: .08em; color: var(--x-muted); }
.x-article__img { margin: clamp(40px, 6vw, 72px) 0; }
.x-article__img img { width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 21 / 9; object-fit: cover; }
.x-article__img figcaption { margin-top: 12px; font-size: 13px; color: var(--x-muted); }
.x-article__body { display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr) 320px; gap: clamp(40px, 6vw, 88px); align-items: start; }
.x-prose { max-width: 66ch; display: grid; gap: 26px; }
.x-prose > p { font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.8; }
.x-prose > p:first-of-type::first-letter { float: left; font: 400 84px/.78 var(--x-serif); padding: 8px 12px 0 0; color: var(--x-sea-deep); }
.x-quote { margin: 18px 0; padding: 30px 0; border-block: 1px solid var(--x-gold); font: italic 400 clamp(26px, 3vw, 36px)/1.25 var(--x-serif); text-align: center; }
.x-quote cite { display: block; margin-top: 14px; font: 500 12px/1.4 var(--x-sans); font-style: normal; letter-spacing: .2em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--x-sea-deep); }
.x-toc { border: 1px solid var(--x-gold); padding: 28px 32px; background: var(--x-ivory); }
.x-toc ol { margin: 16px 0 0; padding-left: 22px; display: grid; gap: 2px; }
.x-toc li::marker { font-family: var(--x-serif); color: var(--x-sea-deep); }
.x-toc a { text-decoration: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: var(--tap); font: 400 21px/1.3 var(--x-serif); }
.x-toc a:hover { color: var(--x-sea-deep); }
.x-faq h2 { font-size: clamp(30px, 3vw, 40px); margin: 14px 0 12px; }
.x-faq details { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--x-gold); }
.x-faq details:first-of-type { border-top: 1px solid var(--x-gold); }
.x-faq summary { list-style: none; cursor: pointer; display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: center; gap: 20px; min-height: var(--tap); padding-block: 18px; font: 500 22px/1.3 var(--x-serif); }
.x-faq summary::-webkit-details-marker { display: none; }
.x-faq summary::after { content: "+"; font: 300 26px/1 var(--x-sans); color: var(--x-sea-deep); transition: transform var(--dur-quick) var(--ease-out); }
.x-faq details[open] summary::after { transform: rotate(45deg); }
.x-faq details p { padding-bottom: 20px; color: var(--x-muted); max-width: 60ch; }
.x-side { position: sticky; top: 120px; border: 1px solid var(--x-gold); background: var(--x-ivory); }
.x-side img { width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 4 / 3; object-fit: cover; }
.x-side__copy { padding: 26px 26px 30px; display: grid; gap: 14px; }
.x-side h3 { font: 500 28px/1.15 var(--x-serif); }
.x-side p { font-size: 15px; color: var(--x-muted); }
@media (max-width: 900px) {
.x-split, .x-ask .x-wrap, .x-stay, .x-news .x-wrap, .x-article__body { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
.x-grid { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, 1fr); }
.x-towns .x-wrap { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 16px; }
.x-app .x-wrap { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
.x-side { position: static; max-width: 420px; }
.x-split__img { aspect-ratio: 4 / 3; }
}
@media (max-width: 600px) {
.x-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
.x-form { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
.x-sec__head--row { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
.x-hero { min-height: 88vh; }
.x-towns li + li::before { padding-inline: 10px; }
}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) { .x-split__img img, .x-card__img img { transition: none; } }
/* real-site additions */
.x-crumbs{font-size:13px;color:var(--x-muted);letter-spacing:.04em}
.x-crumbs a{text-decoration:none;border-bottom:1px solid var(--x-gold)}
.x-crumbs ol{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:6px;justify-content:center}
.x-crumbs li+li::before{content:"/";padding-right:6px;color:var(--x-gold)}
.x-article__hero img{width:100%;aspect-ratio:21/9;object-fit:cover}
.x-prose{font-size:18px;line-height:1.8;display:block}
.x-prose>*+*{margin-top:1.1em}
.x-prose h2{font:400 clamp(30px,3.4vw,44px)/1.12 var(--x-serif);margin-top:1.8em;scroll-margin-top:100px}
.x-prose h3{font:500 clamp(22px,2.2vw,27px)/1.25 var(--x-serif);margin-top:1.4em;scroll-margin-top:100px}
.x-prose a{color:var(--x-sea-deep);text-decoration:underline;text-decoration-color:var(--x-gold);text-underline-offset:3px}
.x-prose a:hover{color:var(--x-navy)}
.x-prose ul,.x-prose ol{padding-left:1.3em}
.x-prose li+li{margin-top:.4em}
.x-prose li::marker{color:var(--x-sea-deep)}
.x-prose figure{margin:2em 0}
.x-prose figure img{width:100%;height:auto}
.x-prose figcaption{margin-top:10px;font-size:13px;line-height:1.5;color:var(--x-muted)}
.x-prose figcaption a{color:var(--x-muted)}
.x-prose blockquote{padding:24px 0;border-block:1px solid var(--x-gold);font:italic 400 26px/1.35 var(--x-serif);text-align:center}
.x-prose table{width:100%;border-collapse:collapse;font-size:16px}
.x-prose th,.x-prose td{border-bottom:1px solid var(--x-gold);padding:10px 8px;text-align:left;vertical-align:top}
.x-prose>p:first-of-type::first-letter{float:left;font:400 84px/.78 var(--x-serif);padding:8px 12px 0 0;color:var(--x-sea-deep)}
.x-prose .x-faqsec h3{font-size:22px}
.x-updated{font-size:13px;color:var(--x-muted)}
.x-toc{margin:0 0 2em}
.x-toc ol{counter-reset:none}
.x-toc a{font-size:19px;min-height:36px}
.x-sidecol{display:grid;gap:28px;position:sticky;top:110px}
.x-sidecol .x-side{position:static}
.x-related{border-top:1px solid var(--x-gold);padding-top:clamp(48px,6vw,80px);margin-top:clamp(48px,6vw,80px)}
.x-author{display:grid;grid-template-columns:auto 1fr;gap:20px;align-items:center;border:1px solid var(--x-gold);padding:24px;margin-top:2.4em;background:var(--x-ivory)}
.x-author__mono{width:64px;height:64px;border-radius:50%;background:var(--x-tint);display:grid;place-items:center;font:italic 400 30px/1 var(--x-serif);color:var(--x-sea-deep)}
.x-author p{font-size:15px;line-height:1.6;color:var(--x-muted)}
.x-author strong{color:var(--x-navy)}
.x-page{padding-block:clamp(56px,8vw,110px)}
.x-page .x-prose{margin:0 auto}
.x-page__head{text-align:center;max-width:860px;margin:0 auto clamp(36px,5vw,60px);display:grid;gap:18px;justify-items:center}
.x-page__head h1{font-size:clamp(40px,5.4vw,72px)}
.x-status{grid-column:1/-1;font:italic 400 19px/1.4 var(--x-serif);color:var(--x-sea-deep)}
.x-status.err{color:#8a2b2b}
.x-hp{position:absolute!important;left:-9999px!important;width:1px;height:1px;overflow:hidden}
.x-catlist{display:grid;gap:clamp(56px,7vw,96px)}
@media (max-width:900px){.x-sidecol{position:static}}
.x-toc ul{list-style:none;margin:14px 0 0;padding:0;display:grid;gap:0}
.x-toc li{border-top:1px solid rgba(200,180,138,.45)}
.x-toc li:first-child{border-top:0}
.x-prose .x-toc a{text-decoration:none;color:var(--x-navy)}